Planet Bruce's Weblog

Top 10 Tips for New Homeowners

First time home-owners will experience some of the greatest highs and lows of their lives in the first few years immediately following their move. My first big thrill was walking to my mailbox and realizing I didn't need a key to unlock it, as I did at our previous townhouse. The first week was positively heady as I basked in the enjoyment of our new home, eating breakfast on the porch, enjoying the spring foliage, meeting our very hospitable neighbors, and experiencing many other small pleasures too numerous to mention. Here are my top 10 tips for enjoying your new home to the maximum and making it as positive an experience as possible:

Flash Components - Tips for Inspectable Metadata for Color and Font Name types

For a good introduction to creating your own Flash Components, see Creating Components with Flash MX 2004 by Joey Lott. He describes the metadata tags for specifying parameters that can be set via the Properties panel. The Adobe (formerly Macromedia) Live Docs on Adding Component Metadata aren't very thorough.

The examples are clear enough for simple datatypes, such as Numbers and Strings. Here are two other data types of interest.

For Color values, set the type=Color, and be sure to specify the RGB hex defaultValue in quotes with a preceding number sign as shown here:

  [Inspectable(defaultValue="#00ffff",type=Color)]

If you do it right, for that parameter, the user should see a bar of color in the Parameters pane of the Properties panel. Clicking on the color bar should bring up a color inspector.

For Font Names, set the type="Font Name", and be sure to include the quotes and the space as shown here:

	
  [Inspectable(defaultValue="Verdana",type="Font Name")]

If you do it right, for that parameter, if he/she tries to edit the parameter, the user should be shown a list of available fonts.

Searching ActionScript .as Files under Windows XP

If you try to search for text within an .as file in Windows XP, you might notice that you don't get any search results even when you know the text you are looking for is in the files you're searching. By default, Windows XP will search only the filenames of .as files and not their contents. In fact, it searches the full body text only for certain known file types. To get the full text search of .as files and other file types, you could use something like Google Desktop. Or you can remedy the deficiency in Windows XP using the suggestions in the Microsoft technote 'Using the "A word or phrase in the file" search criterion may not work'.

As per the Microsoft technote, I set this key in the Windows Registy and it worked:

HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.as\PersistentHandler\(Default) =
                             {5e941d80-bf96-11cd-b579-08002b30bfeb}

Note: To edit the Windows Registry, type RegEdit at the Start menu's Run prompt.

You need to log off and log back on for the change to take effect.

Garbage (Thoughts IV)

I have a hard time walking around my neighborhood without carrying a trash bag to pick up the occasional piece of garbage in the street. I long for the days of pop-tops that you could wear as a ring. So much more interesting than the lame tabs that break off modern soda cans. Usually it is a cigarette butt from the lawn maintenance crews and Russian maids. But there are plenty of silver foil gum wrappers and pieces of string trimmer line in a rainbow of colors--green, red, and orange. The bottles and cans aren't trash, just recycling that made a break for it to avoid being manhandled by the collectors.

In spring, after the snow melts, there is a veritable smorgasbord (orgasbord) of trash in the gutters. I'm simultaneously repulsed and excited. My kids are equally obsessed, competing to see whose trash bag weighs more. My son collects the bottlecaps. Do the neighbors think we're wierd? Helpful? Fastidious? Critical? Neighborly? Maybe I'll adopt a highway then neglect it. Earth Day was such a letdown. Everyone picks up trash on Earth Day.

Head First Girl (Thoughts III)

I have just one question about the Head First Girl.
What does she do second?

Freelance Rates - What Should I Charge?

A colleague asks "Are there any resources that help freelance developers determine a fair rate to charge for their time?"

The "fair" rate in an efficient market is, by definition, the rate that a willing client will pay a willing contractor. Determining the fair rate for labor is no different than determining the fair rate for a movie ticket or martini in Manhattan.

The best resource here is your eyes and ears. If you are getting more business than you can handle, then your rate is too low. If you are getting turned down for jobs for which you are qualified, then your rate is probably too high. A client or employer won't tell you if the reason you were not chosen is illegal, such as prejudice. But they should be willing to answer direct questions such as "Was my hourly rate the deciding factor?" or "What were you looking for in the portfolio of an applicant?"

Your real question might be "How do I maximize my income as a contractor?" This question refers to the elasticity of demand for your particular skill. If you charge $100/hr, you might be employed less often and therefore make less income than if you charge $80/hr. On the other hand, your free time has some value to you, so you might be happy working fewer hours at a higher rate if you goal is, to some extent, to maximize your hourly rate (or similarly, to maximize your income in, say, 1000 hours of consulting a year).

Regardless, you can usually maximize your chances for contracts and especially higher paying contracts in the usual ways: * Promote yourself * Upgrade your skills * Improve your portfolio

I won't go into details on the above here, but, for example, promoting yourself might entail sending out more resumes, putting your resume on a job site such as craigslist.com, attending trade shows, building a web site, etc. Upgrading your skills might mean taking a course or getting a certification. And improving your portfolio might entail doing some low-paying or volunteer jobs to gain entry into the market. If your question is "How can I charge high rates without feeling guilty or evil?," the answer is easy: Charge what the market will bear. Send any excess to your favorite charity. You can better decide what to do with the money than the client can.

If the question is "What rate can I charge without the client expecting more of me than I can deliver?," you are also in a common boat. The answer is that if the client hires you at $x/hr, she thinks you're worth it. If you prove not to be worth it, she will fire you. If you don't handle rejection well, or if you aren't sure (the client seems ambivalent), ask the client if she is happy with your performance. If not, you can offer to bill the client for less hours than you worked. This preserves the ilusion that you are worth the same $x/hr in the long run, even if in the short run you need to get up to speed or bring more focus to your work. Another way to preserve an illusion of a high hourly rate while giving yourself time to get up to speed is to offer a flat bid on a project. If you can do it for $1000, the client doesn't care if it takes you one hour or 100 hours. That said, flat bids can be fraught with hazards, so they shouldn't be prepared lightly. That's another topic I'll save for another day.

Floss (Thoughts II)

I got a piece of dental floss and then went to check email. The floss just hung in my mouth. After a minute or so, I noticed the mint flavor of the floss stinging my lips. Am I that forgetful? Would I use floss if it wasn't minty? Am I that superficial?

The Staple (Thoughts I)

I threw a staple at the garbage can in my office. I heard it bounce off the metal of the can's rim and jingle against the wood floor, so I knew I missed. I walked over to pick it up. I found it, but how do I know it is the same staple? They all look the same.

The Funniest Thing I Read Today

Excerpted from the NJ Do-Not-Call law 56:8-119.

"The Legislature finds and declares that telemarketing calls may arrive when a resident or family member is having a meal and the interruption disrupts valuable time when family members are together, where family members are more remote from a telephone and when food may, during the interruption, cool, melt, thicken, dry, or undergo a change in palatability;"

FLV Files

I'm often asked, "I see a lot of sites putting movies up on the web. They seem to be in FLV format. What the heck is an FLV file and what plays them back?" Here is some vague information to get you started. I'm too lazy to research the details definitively right now.

FLV is a "Flash Video" file. It is a format that is designed for web playback, offering high rates of compression. Several products output in FLV format, including Sorenson Squeeze (I think Sorensen developed the FLV format and Macromedia licenses it). (The term "movie" often refers to common Flash source files (.FLA) and deployed files (.SWF) and is not synonymous with "video").

The Flash Player browser plugin can play an FLV, but that FLV, to my knowledge, must be either embedded in or linked to a SWF. That is, you can't just put the FLV on an HTML page, me thinks. You can check if something is running in Flash Player on Windows by right-clicking on the content. If the pop-up contextual menu says "About Macromedia Flash Player 7" then you know it is running inside Flash Player. On the Mac, I think you need to Ctrl-click since there is no right mouse button.

You need Flash Player 6 or later, I believe, to play an FLV inside a SWF. Flash Player 7 (the current version) can also provide "progressive download" of external FLV files, which is not quite the same as streaming. For true streaming, you need FlashCom Server on the server side (and either Flash Player 6 or 7 on the client side). Or I guess there might be thrid-party imitators.

Macromedia also sells a "Flash Video Kit" for Dreamweaver, which I believe creates the SWF for you. It also compresses the FLV using Sorensen Squeeze Lite.

Anyway, this is all explained in the Preface to "Programming Flash Communication Server". Also see the chapter on video in that book for more info about the tools to create FLV files.

Happy FLVing!

Damp Squib

Those damn squid, errr, damp squid! I must have squid on the brain. Speaking of which, the first time I heard of my future sister-in-law was when I noticed a postcard she had sent my brother (the one she eventually married, not the other one that she dallies with on the side ;)). In it, she addressed her future and current husband as "Squid-brain," and I knew I'd like her from there on out.

Anyway, in today's news, I see Tony Blair referring to a supposed "smoking gun" memo regarding the legality of the Iraq war as a "damp squib." Must be a British expression. A quick check online reveals that it is a fairly common term mean something that amounts to very little. A "squib" is apparently a small firecracker, and a damp one presumably promises much but fizzles instead. It also apparently refers to a racehorse that starts fast but fizzles out.

Learning something new every day is a surefire way not get paid for doing something you already know.

American Idol Recap - Week 4

[Due to technical problems, I wasn't able to post this before Wednesday's voting, but here is my recap and prediction for week 4, which I wrote in advance of the result's show.]

Ryan Seacrest wore a spirograph, Japanese sweater thing. Stick to the T-shirts. This weeks theme was "Classical Musicals" but there were few classics. The recap:

1. Scott Savol's "Imposssible Dream" would come to an end were it not for Anthony singing even worse. The man of la mangia was elegant in a dark pinstripe suit; his performance was heartfelt but as pitchy as the windmills

2. Constantine Maroulis is no babe in arms but my wife would like to make him her "Funny Valentine." His sultry jazz/improv torch song rendition in a long black morning coat didn't leave the girls flat even if the last note was. With the tuxedo and watch chain, all he was missing was the monacle.

3. Carrie and I, "Hello Young Lover" was mind-numbingly boring but she brought it on home. Even if her hair and dress were old-fashioned, she is an old favorite and will cruise on through.

4. Vonzell Solomon is Barbara's kind of "People" . This funny girl looked glam in a brown flowered wrap dress and straight hair. She'll live to challenge yet another diva.

5. Anthony Federov in his blue shirt and disco white pants can't climb this mountain. Too lounge-y, too pitchy, too late. He'll be voted off this week.

6. Nikko Smith - "One Hand, One Heart" from West Side Story proved he is no Shark or Jet despite the sleek wardrobe (and matching sneakers). Weak song choice will put him in the bottom three.

7. Anwar Robinson, "If Ever I Would Leave You" it wouldn't be this week. His torch song Stevie Wonder version, complete with Hendrix-meets-Sgt.-Pepper velvet jacket and scarf was just the ticket to ride. Excellent if not inspirational.

8. Bo Bice was in his "Corner of the Sky" with a ketchup naugahide shirt and leather pants. "He looks shiny" was the best I can say about it, but he'll survive. Why the Christ didn't he do a tune from "Jesus Christ Superstar"?

9. Nadia Turner in an elegant white dress that fell off her lithe, size 1 frame belted out a torch song that was too old for her. She's not Liza but she'll be back.

Prediction: Nikko, Scott, and Anthony will be in the bottom three and Anthony is history.

Sump Pump Primer

Here is everything I know about sump pumps that you might find useful. A "sump" (I call it a "sump pit" or "sump well") is the hole that collects water in your basement, and a sump pump is the pump that periodically drains it. Not all basements have sump pumps. Some homeowners simply choose to live dangerously (or live in an area where they don't get water, such as at the top of a hill or in a dry region). Others prefer to seal off their basements walls water tight to keep water out. I know of at least one knowledgeable guy who swears by that approach, but you've got to consult someone who knows more about it (I assume the trick is to seal the basement walls with a watertight coating). Anyway, back to sump pumps...

If you have a sump pump and your basement is flooding, there are several possible causes:

1. Your pump isn't working.

2. Your pump is working, but not often or fast enough to keep water out.

3. Your pump is working, but the water exit hose is blocked, so water is backing up into your basement.

Each of these problems can be permanent or intermittent, so let's look at some of the issues. First, you should understand the basic process at work. The sump pit fills up with water. The sump pump, which is submersed in the pit, has a float on it. The float is usually either a white or black plastic oblong shape, although it may be covered in mud and appear brown. When the water rises, the float rises, and this should activate the pump. (This is the rather the opposite of the float in your toilet, which turns off the water flow when the water level rises.) The pump pumps the water through a pipe to the outside (either a drainage ditch, storm drain, or the street, usually). When the water level drops, the float falls, and the pump should shut off. There are other types of pumps which are not submersible. They sit on a stalk above the sump pit and often have a pressure-sensitive switch instead of a float, but I limit this discussion to the common submersible pump with a float.

If your pump isn't working at all, there are many possible causes, all with relatively simple solutions. (You can tell whether the pump is running by listening near the sump pit for a whirring, clicking, or whooshing noise. If you can't hear anything and the sump pit is sealed, grasp the exit pipe, often white PVC, and feel for slight vibration of the water rushing through the pipe.) If your basement is flooded, you can use a temporary pump that connects to a garden hose to help drain the basement (althoough these generally have much lower capacity than permanent sump pumps, so you may need more than one). Temporary pumps are available from hardware and plumbing stores, and often from pool supply stores (they're used to drain water from the top of pool covers).

If your pump isn't running:

1. There may be no water in the sump pit, so the pump doesn't need to run. In fact, the pump shouldn't run without water, as that often leads to the pump burning out. If your pump is running continually even when it shouldn't, it may be a stuck float or a bad swtich (see below). If your pump isn't running, test it by pouring a bucket of water into the sump pit or running water from a garen hose into it. The pump should kick on when the water level rises. You can also move the float manually (see below) but you'll also want to make sure the float moves without your manual intervention.

2. The sump pump might not be getting power. This might be due to a power outage, or perhaps the circuit breaker for the circuit on which the pump is located has tripped. If the problem is a power outage, you'll need either a backup generator or a dedicated battery backup unit (about the size of a car battery) designed to power a sump pump during a power outage. As the most common time to get a flood is during a storm, which might also knock at power, you should have a power backup system in place before finishing a basement with carpets, furniture, etc. Until then, keep everything in the basement up on palettes or cinder blocks, or in waterproof bins. If the problem is that your sump circuit tripped, have a qualified electrician install a dedicated circuit just for the sump pump. For example, don't run a basement dehumidifier or washer/dryer on the same circuit as your sump pump. You should have a dedicated circuit for your sump pump regardless, and the circuit should have a ground fault interupter (GFI) to prevent electric shock.

3. If the float cannot move freely, it might not float up and activate the pump when water rises. Make sure the float is not binding on the side of the sump pit. Test it by manually moving the float up or down with your hand and see if the pump turns on and off (you should hear a clicking sound when the float rises or falls.) Some pumps have a built-in delay to ensure that the pump doesn't turn on and off too frequently. So wait up to five minutes before moving the float again to see if the pump drains the the sump pit when the float is raised. Make sure nothing (such as foam packing pellets or a marble) has fallen in the sump pit to obstruct the float. Sometimes, gravel and/or silt will obstruct the float. In that case, remove the sump pump from the pit (discussed later), dig out the loose material at the bottom of the sump pit with a garden spade, place a piece of slate or a flat concrete paver at the bottom of the pit to create a flat, even surface, and replace the sump pump. Note that you want something thin and water resistant under the pump. Don't use something like wood that will rot and flake. And be sure to dig out the pit deep enough so that the height of the pump isn't changed when you add in the bottom surface. Otherwise, the pipe might have to be shortened when you replace the pump, as the pump will sit higher than before.

4. If the pump doesn't turn on when the float rises, then the switch is most likely bad. Sump pumps typically last 3 to 7 years, so it probably isn't worth replacing the switch. New pumps are usually under $100, so it is easiest to simply install a new pump if the switch on the old one is bad. Be sure to get a pump with at least the same capacity as the old one and with an exit drain size (see below) compatible with your existing pipes. And make sure the pump will fit in the existing sump pit. It is often most convenient to replace a pump with the identical model so that the exit pipe is in the same place and at the same height, especially if you have a custom-fitted cover over your sump pit.

So that basically wraps up the section on "the pump isn't running". The problem is either the electrical power to the pump, an obstructed float, or a broken switch, and the remedies are described above.

Now let's suppose that your pump runs but your basement is still flooding. This means that your pump can't keep up with the incoming water. But this might be for many reasons. Understand that the pump's ability to drain water is a function of the pump's capacity (often measured in horsepower or displacement), the diameter of the exit pipe, the rate of water coming into the basement, and how soon the pump starts when water rises.

Let's talk about each issue:

1. Household sump pumps typically come in either 1/3, 1/2, 2/3, or 3/4 horsepower, with 1/3 horsepower often being inadequate and 3/4 horsepower sufficient for the all but the worst cases. If your pump can't keep up with incoming water, increasing the pump size might solve the problem, but keep reading.

2. The exit pipe is typically 1.5 inches in diameter, but may be as much as 2 inches or as little as 1 inch. The smaller the exit pipe, the harder for the pump to push water through it. But you can't really change the exit pipe diameter without also changing the pump, because it will have threads for a particular diameter pipe. If you have a 1.5 inch pipe or larger and a 1/3 horsepower pump, get a stronger pump with the same diameter pipe. If you decide to increase the pipe diameter, you will need to change the exit piping, including possibly the pipes that carry the water from your house to the outside drainage ditch, storm drain, or street. In other words, you have to make sure you cure the bottleneck.

3. You can drastically affect the amount of water coming into your basement by ensuring that the grading around your house is proper. That means there should be enough soil to angle water away from your foundation. Make sure gutters are clear and that downspouts output water at least two to four feet from your house. Make sure your yard is graded away from the house and consult a drainage engineer for ways to draw more water away from your foundation. The water might well be coming from other nearby properties. Consult your town planning board to see if they can divert water away from your property (and keep in mind that changing drainage patterns is often a code violation, so consult the town before you undertake any regrading).

4. Realize that your sump pump isn't just draining the small sump pit in your basement floor. It is really trying to lower the water table below the bottom of the sump pit. If the sump pit is too shallow, the water table will have risen almost to your basement floor before the pump kicks in. In the case of sudden, heavy rainstorms, your pump won't keep up. Therefore, the pit should be dug deeper to give your pump a chance to "keep ahead of the game". But your pit shouldn't be so deep that it is constantly trying to lower the water table unreasonably. Consult a knowledgeable local plumber or drainage engineer, but a good rough number is that the sump pit should be about 20 inches deep. Again, this depends on many issues, including the local water table, the depth to which the basement is dug, the local soil composition, the peak rainfall, local runoff which depends on the nearby topology, etc. It isn't an exact science, but if your basement is flooding and your pump is already of a larger capacity, consider deepening the sump pit to give the pump a head start. You might need to redo the pipes, and be sure not to exceed the rise your pump is capable of. That is, lowering a sump pump might decrease it's ability to pump out water.

5. If one pump isn't keeping up with the water influx, consider adding a second sump pit and a second pump (each should be on a dedicated electrical cicuit). In a basement covering a large area, you might want to position the two sump pumps at opposite ends of the basement. In a smaller basement, some people create a larger sump pit with two pumps in it. Often, the second pump will be situated at a higher level (picture a pit where the bottom looks like a staircase, with one pump on each step). The second pump won't kick on unless the first pump falls behind and the water rises sufficiently high.

Often, your pump will be working fine but there will be a problem with the pipes (either inside your house or outside your house) that are supposed to carry the water away. Assuming the pipes are of appropriate diameter, there are still other possible issues.

1. Pumps are rated only to pump water a certain vertical distance. For example, a pump may be rated at 50 gallons per minute (gpm) for an 8-foot rise. If your piping is such that the pump has to pump water out a pipe that rises 10 feet, it won't achieve the full 50 gpm. Check your pump's rating and/or consult a qualified plumber.

2. A few feet above your sum pit, in the exit pipe, there should be a "check valve". A check valve is a one-way valve that prevents water from flowing backward in the pipe. This prevents the water that you pumped out from draining directly back in. Make sure the check valve is functioning properly and oriented in the correct direction (it should have arrows on the outside indicating the direction of water flow). If the pump is often running, stopping, and starting again, the check valve may either be broken or it may be too high on the exit pipe (It should be a located only a few feet above your basement floor, not at the top of the exit pipe.) Replacing a check valve is relatively easy. Just make sure you get the right size valve for your pipe diameter, and have a bucket ready to catch the water that drains when you remove the old one. Unscrew the hose clamps on either end of the old valve, then wiggle the valve to get the rubber boots off the existing pipes. Wiggle the new check valve in place (there is usually a certain amount of play in the pipes to make this possible). Make sure the PVC pipes on either end are well-seated into the rubber boots on the ends of the new check valve, and re-tighten the hose clamps.

3. The exit pipe typically comes up vertically from the sump pit. At some point, it should make a 90-degree turn towards a nearby outside wall. In fact, the turn should ideally be tighter than 90 degrees so that the pipe is angled down as it exits the house. This prevents water from staying in the pipe, which discourages frozen pipes or excess water draining back into the system (although the check valve should prevent the latter).

4. Once the exit pipe leaves the house, it typically travels underground. This pipe should be pitched downward so that it drains. This prevents standing water which can freeze and burst the pipe. The drain pipes typically are not buried below the frost line, even in colder climates. This is why the right pitch is crucial to prevent build up of ice. Older pipes may lose their pitch over time. For example, at my 40-year-old house, the original drain pipe was too narrow and flexible. Over time, tree roots lifted it up to ground level, eliminating the appropriate pitch, causing standing water that froze and broke the pipe. For that matter, tree roots sometimes invade pipes and obstruct them from the inside (a leaky pipe is a source of water to which roots are attracted). The solution is to have a roto-router machine penetrate the tree routes to clear the line (although this may be only a temporary solution).

5. At some point, the drain pipe exits to a drainage ditch, storm drain, or the street. This exit point can become clogged with ice, leaves, dirt, or animal activity (nests, burrows, etc.). Make sure it is clear at least once a season. Thankfully, there usually isn't a lot of water flowing when ice blockages are likely. Unfortunately, when the ice and snow melts, a lot of water can drain into your basement when the exit pipe is still frozen, so be sure to check it when the weather starts to thaw.

Other things to keep in mind:

1. Putting a cover over the sump pit is a good idea in most cases. It prevents objects such as packing pellets and marbles from falling into the well, which can obstruct the float and cause a flood.

2. If you have a radon mitigation system, the sump pit can be a major source of radon. Therefore, it should be sealed air tight. You can use a piece of wood, acrylic, or flexible plastic as a lid, and seal it down with waterprooof caulk or mastic. You'll have to cut holes for the things that must pass through the lid. Seal around the pipe and the sump pump power cord where they pass through the cover. Also leave room for a hose running from your dehumidifer and the condensation drain pipe from your air conditioner/furnace, if applicable.

3. If you have a sealed sump pit, consider one with a large screwcap to allow you to open the cover to pour water down it or peer in with a flashlight.

4. If you have a sealed sump pit, you may need to replace the cover when you replace the sump pump or exit piping, as they may be a different size or in a different location.

5. A sump pit should be big enough for the pump to fit comfortably in it. A square 16 inches on a side or a hole 18 inches in diameter is usually big enough. You might need to drill it with a jackhammer. I'm not sure how deep it should be, but 20 inches is in the right ballpark. I'm not sure what you're supposed to put on the bottom, although some suggest gravel (I prefer a harder surface, such as a piece of slate atop the gravel to give a level surface, preventing the pump from tipping, which sometimes causes the float to bind on the wall of the pit. A stable surface also prevent gravel from being sucked into the pump intake which is usually on the bottom of the pump, but keep reading).

6. The sump pit's lining should be porous. The whole idea is to let water in so that your pump can pump it out. If your sump pit is too well sealed, water will rise in the basement before it rises in the sump pit. Therefore, the sides of the pit are usually gravel that is held back by a perforated lining made of metal, plastic, or ceramic. The bottom is typically open, often lined with gravel. That said, I've seen numerous sump pits incorrectly lined with something that was non-perforated. If need be, punch some holes in the sides of the sump pit's lining.

7. Be sure that your sump pump drains to an appropriate storm drain and not to the sewer drain. Municipalities pay a lot of money to pump storm water out of their sewage treatment plants, so draining to your sewer line is often a violation of local building codes. (That's right, storm drains and sewer drains are two different networks.) And don't pump storm water into your septic system, as you'll quickly overwhelm it.

Removing a sump pump from the pit

Removing and replacing a sump pump is surprisingly easy. A pump sits on the bottom of the sump pit (it's not bolted down in any way). The restraints to removing a pump are the sump pit lid, if any, and the piping to which the pump is attached. So to remove a sump pump, first remove the lid and the pipe:

1. Unplug the power cord!

2. The PVC pipe and power cord will pass through the sump pit lid, if any. Using a utility knife, carefully cut the caulk sealing the lid to the basement floor. In some cases, the lid will be bolted down, in which case you must unscrew the bolts.

2. You don't necessarily need to separate the cord and pipe from the lid. You can move them all in one piece, for now. Later, if you have to separate them,carefully cut away any caulk with a utility knife, being sure not to cut the power cord. (Did you make sure it was unplugged!?)

3. Loosen the bottom hose clamp holding the check valve in place (see description above). If you loosen the top one, water will drain, so have a bucket handy. Once you loosen the hose clamp, you should be able to wiggle the pipe free below the check valve. (The check valve is often green with black rubber boots on either side.)

4. If there is no check valve, or the check valve is in the wrong place, cut the pipe with a saw and install a check valve. Click here for more information on working with PVC pipes.

5. Once the pipe is free, you should be able to lift the whole pump unit out of the sump pit. Although you can lift by the pipe, most pumps also have a handle by which you can lift them. DON'T lift the pump by the arm that supports the float!

6. Get a good worklight, being careful not to let it contact water in the sump pit.

7. Clean out and level the bottom of the sump pit as described above. Remove any debris and consider installing a piece of slate or concrete paver as a flat supportive surface at the bottom of the pit.

8. The pump may be covered with muck. Take it outside, hose it off. Cleaning it may be sufficient to get the float and switch to work properly. Remove any rocks from the intake.

9. Look on the pump for a little metal plate that list the model and capacity so you can replace it if necessary. (You won't be able to find the plate until you hose off the pump.)

10. If replacing the pump, unscrew the PVC pipe from the pump itself. You might need a big wrench or a rubber strap wrench. Bring both the pipe and the old pump to the hardware store to make sure you get the appropriate replacement (if necessary, they'll unscrew the old pipe and screw the new one in for you).

11. You might need to replace the pipe or the sump pit lid depending on the location of the pipe as it exits the pump and the height of the new pump relative to the old one. See the earlier discussion about using a different pipe size or pump capacity.

American Idol Results - Week 3

As per my prediction Jessica Sierra was voted off the show tonight. Despite a strong performance last night, Nadia was again in the bottom two. Somewhat surprisingly, Anwar was also in the lowest three. It seems that the audience is voting mainly on the most recent performance rather than the body of work.

Jessica just wasn't consistent enough and Carrie probably pulls votes away from her. Despite talent, she doesn't have that "it" factor and probably won't have a meaningful singing career.

Somewhat surprisingly, Nikko and Scott have yet to even be in the bottom three. Less surprisingly, three women are already out of the competition. But Carrie will carry the torch for the women, even if Vonzell and Nadia don't. Carrie remains the odds-on favorite unless we start seeing something spectacular from the men. Anwar and Bo are probably the only men who can beat her in the long run, and that's a long shot.

Epstein out!

American Idol Recap - Week 3

The theme for the show was "The 90s". The show started out weak but with no obvious bombs. As my daughter said, "After Mikalah was out, they're all good. It will be so sad if Nikko has to leave again." They didn't name all the songs this week, and I watched it late on tape, but here is my summary before tonight's results show.

4. Bo Bice - Weak choice for a Black Crowe's song ("Remedy"). Between the cow-cowboy hat and the red velvet shirt, "I'm glad I can look back at it and not remember it" even if he did have hints of Meat Loaf. Bo's safe this week.

2. Jessica Sierra's no Lee Ann Rhimes after all. The purple coat was too tight for her anyway. She will be in the bottom three and probably leaving the show this week.

3. Anwar Robinson - "I Believe I Can Sing" . Pitchy in places. He'll escape trouble this week, but his clothier isn't the only one in jeopardy.

4. Nadia Turner - No longer looking like a chicken--hot and sultry in a tank and peasant skirt, she's the "Only One" for me and Melissa. She's safe..

5. Constantine Maroulis - "I Can't Make You Love Me" but my wife loved you. BTB (Better than Bo). His best performance to date.

6. Nikko was weako, but props on the fly toreador outfit and the dance moves. Give me just one more chance to be in the bottom three and then start a clothing line with Scotty.

7. Anthony Federov - "I Can't Explain the Way You Look Tonight" in lime green. He must have thrown away his glasses with Scott. Poor song choice but his best performance in weeks. Safe for tonight.

8. Carrie Underwood's "Day of Reckoning" isn't far off. Verdict: The next Martina McBride despite the green scarf.

9. Scotty Savol gave his best but the velvet striped pajamas may not be enough. Definitely in the bottom three tonight.

10. Vonzell Solomon has me and the rest of the world with the kinky hair, electric smile, slinky black dress and admirable rendition of Whitney pre-hab. I had goosebumps. Props to you.

Prediction: Jessica is out. Nikko and Scott will join her in the bottom three but survive another week. Too bad, Jessica just isn't consistent enough, and there are too many stronger performers.

Martial

A poem by Bruce Epstein
martial arts
martial law
Marshall Islands
Marshall Plan
Marshall Faulk
Uncle Marshall
US Marshalls
Marshall Tito

Head Lice

If you have kids, you're probably going to encounter head lice at one time or another. For more information, see these resources:

HeadLice.org

Some Advice from some Harvard dudes

Instead of using a potentially harmful pesiticide on your kids' hair, try using a nit comb for several weeks. The LiceMeister comb claims to be the best, but I'm sure drugstores have cheaper, adequate nit combs.

Pediculosis

Pediculosis is the fancy name for an infestation of head lice. A pediculicide is something that kills lice. See LiceMeister for more information.

Things You Didn't Know About Credit Cards

If you're like me, you have a lot of credit cards and use them to varying degrees. Here are some things you probably didn't know about credit cards (okay, so maybe you know some, but I'll bet you didn't know them all).

1. You probably know that due to mergers and acquisitions, many credit cards issued in different names all belong to the same bank. For example, the AT&T Universal credit cards are issued by Citibank. This means several important things to you:

a. If you register accounts on two different web sites using the same username/password, their systems can get confused. For example, if you log in with username "abc" and password "xyz" on the AT&T site, the system may try to locate your Citibank account and be unable to do so. Therefore, use a different username/password for each credit card site (a good practice anyway, to prevent or limit identity theft). Write down the passwords in a safe place (not your wallet).

b. You can't use a credit card to pay off another card from the same bank. Therefore, you can't use your AT&T Universal card to pay off a Citibank card.

c. You can consolidate two or more cards from multiple sources if they are issued by the same bank. For example, I consolidated the credit lines of my AT&T card with my Citibank card. Ask the card issuer which of the two cards offers a better interest rate, etc., to decide which to eliminate and which to keep.

2. If you want to increase your available credit, ask for credit limit increases periodically (every 6 to 12 months). Do this while you are actively using the card. If you haven't used a card in 6 months or more, the company is less likely to grant an increase. Why get an increase if you don't "need" it? Because your credit score will improve if you have more unused but available credit. IOW, lenders like to see some breathing room (i.e., that you aren't using more than 25%-50% of your available credit).

3. Is it a good idea to cancel unused/unneeded cards? That depends. Certainly, it is good fiscal discipline to reduce your use of credit, and cancelling cards is a good way to avoid temptation. Similarly, it is nice to get rid of unneeded plastic in your wallet and reduce the number of statements coming in. But lenders like to see a long history of credit, so if you cancel a card you've had for a long time, it may shorten your average duration of cardmembership. Likewise, cancelling credit cards may increase your debt-to-available-credit ratio, which may adversely impact your credit score. A better choice might be to consolidate multiple cards with the same issuer.

4. Did you know you can request that a vendor reduce your credit limit? Why reduce your credit limit rather than simply cancel the card? Well, you might want to reduce temptation, or you might want to limit the spending of an authorized user, such as your teenage college student. You can also transfer a portion of a credit limit to another card issued by the same vendor.

5. You probably know that if you are late on a payment, you can be charged late fees. And if that late fee puts you over your credit limit, you can be charged over-the-limit fees. But did you know that credit card issuers can also increase your interest rate dramatically if you are late? So that 5.99% credit card might bump up to 24.99%! Furthermore, if you are late paying a *different* card issuer, other lenders can bump your interest rate! It might be terribly unfair, but it is currently legal. So use credit wisely, and pay your bills on time. Consider using a billpay service to make payments in case you forget to, and don't get too close to your credit limit.

6. If you have balances at different rates, the card issuer will apply payments to the lower of the two rates first! So if you have a cash advance at 5% and purchases at 10% on the same card, payments you send in will be applied to the 5% debt instead of the 10% debt (the exact opposite of what you'd do if you had a choice as the consumer). To avoid the problem, pay off a credit card at a higher rate and then re-borrow at the lowest rate available.

7. As rates rise, look for long-term rates with no expiration (i.e., avoid teaser rates). If you expect to carry a balance long term, do the math. Let's say a card has a 1.99% rate for 6 months and then bumps to 7.99%. In the first year, your average interest rate will be about 5%. You're better off opting for a fixed rate of, say, 3.99% if available. This assumes you'll keep the balance for at least a year. If you keep it longer, the higher interest rate could cost you even more. Include any fees (which can be as much as 3%!) when calculating the effective interest rate.

8. Use credit wisely. Don't be drawn in by advertising phrases such as "Relax. Write a check and start saving." You're not saving money by spending it, even if you are lowering your interest rate. It is still debt that needs to be paid back.

9. Offers can be rescinded without notice. For example, Chase bank reserves the right to decline a convenience check if they "reasonably believe that you will be unable or unwilling to repay the balance." And Citibank "reserves the right to conduct a credit review , including obtaining third-party credit reports, to determine your eligibility for an offer." And most offers have expiration dates. So make sure the convenience check posts to the account in time to get the promotional rate you're seeking. Better still, perform the balance transfer by phone to make sure it is processed in time. And leave sufficient time, as balance transfers can often take 7 to 10 business days (2 calendar weeks).

10. Cash advances or balance transfers don't have grace periods, and cash advances often carry a higher interest rate than balance transfers. (A deposit to a checking account is usually considered a cash advance, whereas paying off another creditor is considered a balance transfer.) Also beware of fees, which can range as high as a whopping 3% of the transaction (!) although they are often capped at $50 or $75 for larger transactions. Therefore, if performing a balance transfer, try to do one large transaction instead of multiple small ones, which are each subjected to a fee. Perhaps execute a cash advance to your checking account (if the rate is advantageous) and then write multiple checks from there. Beware that some promotional rates can be used only to pay off other credit cards, not used to make deposits directly to your saving or checking account. And remember, you can't use a balance transfer to pay off another card from the same card issuer.

11. Don't be shy. Contact your card issuer and ask them to offer a lower rate, waive fees, remove penalties, or make similar allowances should you be late on a payment (or even if you are not).

12. Many "promotions" don't even offer a low rate. Inspect the offer carefully to see if using that convenience check will cost you 18% instead of 5%. Often, the rates offered by phone aren't as good as ones you may have received in writing. So decide whether you are better off using promotional rate checks received in the mail that have yet to expire. When rates do expire, don't be afraid to ask the card issuer to extend the dates (so you get a lower rate for longer).

13. Some banks charge you a fee to pay your bill! For example, if you pay by "check-by-phone", Advanta charges a $12 fee. If you "pay-by-check" via their web site, there is no extra fee.

Intelligent Design

"Intelligent design" is the new name for what was previously called "Creationism" (and stands largely in opposition to Darwin's theory of evolution). My opinion is that Darwin should be taught in biology class and that teaching of creationism should be limited to church/temple/mosque or a comparative religions class.

For more, see "We've been attacked by the intelligent, educated segment of the culture."